Accra: Black Star of Africa, Nkrumah, Jamestown, Labadi Beach, and the Ghana Guide
Accra city guide: Kwame Nkrumah and Ghanaian independence (1957), the Black Star Square, the Nkrumah Memorial Park, the historic Jamestown fishing district, Labadi Beach, the arts scene, and the visitor practical reference.
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Accra and the Black Star of Africa - Ghana Independence and Nkrumah
Accra is the capital of Ghana (population approximately 3.5 million metro), the first sub-Saharan African country to gain independence from British colonial rule. Independence Square (the Black Star Square): the massive ceremonial plaza where Kwame Nkrumah declared independence on 6 March 1957. The famous words: seek ye first the political kingdom and all else shall be added unto you. The Black Star Gate: the triumphal arch bearing the Black Star of Africa, the symbol of Pan-African liberation. Nkrumah (1909-1972) founded Ghana, became first Prime Minister (1957) and President (1960), co-founded the Organisation of African Unity in 1963, and was overthrown in a military coup in 1966 while visiting Hanoi. He died in exile in Guinea in 1972.
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Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park - The Mausoleum and Museum of Ghana Independence
The Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park: the black granite mausoleum containing the remains of Nkrumah and his wife Fathia, built in the 1990s on the site of the polo grounds where independence was declared in 1957. The museum covers his life from Nkroful in western Ghana through education in the United States and United Kingdom, the independence movement leadership, his presidency, and exile. The garden features a statue of Nkrumah pointing toward the horizon. Adjacent to the Ghanaian Parliament building, the park is the primary site of Ghana independence heritage in Accra.
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Jamestown - The Colonial Fishing District and Historic Accra Waterfront
Jamestown: the oldest district of Accra, the colonial fishing community on the Atlantic coast. First settled by the Ga people, the area attracted Europeans from the 15th century: Portuguese, then Danish, then British. Fort James (Danish colonial fort, 17th century, later renamed under British rule) and the Jamestown Lighthouse on the rocky headland are the primary landmarks. The fishing community is one of the largest in Accra: colorful wooden pirogues are pulled up on the beach below the fort, with the fish market and net-repair activity most vivid in early morning. The Jamestown Boxing Gym is a famous community institution in this historic neighborhood that has produced multiple world boxing champions.
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Labadi Beach and Ghanaian Beach Culture - The Atlantic Coast of Accra
Labadi Beach (La Beach): the most popular beach in Accra, approximately 5 km east of the center. Atlantic Ocean waves create a significant shore break with rip currents, so swimming carries more risk than at some other West African beaches. Weekends bring crowds of Accra residents: beach bars, food vendors, palm wine sellers, drumming and dancing, horse rides along the shoreline, goal ball games, and beach photographers. The beach food: grilled tilapia from the Volta River, kelewele (fried spiced plantain), red-red (black-eyed pea stew with fried plantain). The Labadi Pleasure Beach hosts formal weekend events and concerts.
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Accra Arts Scene - National Theatre, Artists Alliance, and the Chale Wote Festival
The National Theatre of Ghana (built by China, opened 1992, designed to resemble a traditional Ghanaian boat) is the primary formal performing arts venue. The Artists Alliance Gallery in Osu is the leading commercial contemporary art gallery. The Centre for National Culture (Arts Centre) in central Accra sells kente cloth, woodcarvings, brass figurines, and batik fabrics. The Chale Wote Street Art Festival (held annually in August in Jamestown since 2011) is the largest street art festival in West Africa: murals, installations, performance art, and live music transform the Jamestown streets. The festival has established Accra as the primary contemporary arts capital of West Africa.
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Accra Practical Guide - Osu, Jollof Wars, Transport, and the Complete Ghana Reference
Osu: the primary commercial and entertainment district with international restaurants, bars, and craft shops along the Cantonments Road (the Osu Oxford Street). The jollof rice debate: Ghanaian jollof is cooked over wood fire giving a smoky flavor; the Ghana vs Nigeria jollof wars are a celebrated piece of West African internet culture. Practical: most nationalities need an e-Visa (available online). Currency: the Ghanaian Cedi (GHS); ATMs are widely available. Transport: the tro-tro (shared minibus) for cheap local travel; Uber and Bolt for comfort. Ghana in numbers: population approximately 34 million; world second-largest cocoa producer; Kotoka International Airport (ACC) has direct flights from London, Amsterdam, New York, and major African cities.